Columbus Reaches Canary Islands on First Voyage
Canary Islands, Spain
The 15th-century equivalent of a roadside pit stop, but with considerably more at stake than a faulty exhaust pipe, is what greeted Christopher Columbus on August 12, 1492. His small fleet – the *Santa María*, a lumbering carrack, and two nimble caravels, the *Pinta* and the *Niña* – had limped into the Canary Islands, specifically the harbor of San Sebastián on La Gomera. They’d already spent several days bouncing between islands after a quick repair stop in Gran Canaria for the *Pinta*, whose rudder had conveniently decided to give out almost immediately after leaving Palos. One might almost suspect sabotage, given the general enthusiasm for Columbus’s venture among some of his crew. Almost.
Columbus himself, a man in his early forties, with a perpetually furrowed brow and an unshakeable conviction in his destiny, was not amused by these delays. He was on a timetable, funded by monarchs who expected a rather swift return on their investment in this improbable westward gamble. His crew, a motley collection of about 90 men – including the three Pínzon brothers, seasoned mariners from Palos, and a few teenagers who had likely signed on for the promise of adventure and gold – were perhaps less concerned with schedules than with the immediate comforts of terra firma. After all, the open ocean, even then, was less a highway and more a vast, watery question mark.
While the *Pinta* was being patched up and the ships restocked with fresh water, firewood, and provisions like cheese, wine, and salted meat, the men had a chance to stretch their legs. Imagine the scene: sun-baked docks, the smell of salt and fish, the guttural sounds of Castilian blending with the local Guanche dialect. For many of the crew, like the young ship’s boy, Pedro de Acevedo, who couldn’t have been much older than 12 or 13, this was probably the furthest they’d ever been from home. They were just lads, some of them, caught up in the wake of a visionary who was, perhaps, a little too certain of his visions.
It was here, on La Gomera, that Columbus met Beatriz de Bobadilla, the island’s formidable governor. A woman known for her sharp wit and even sharper reputation, Beatriz was a widow who governed her domain with an iron fist, having inherited the post after her husband’s assassination. Legend has it they struck up a rather close acquaintance, which, regardless of its romantic veracity, certainly made Columbus’s resupply efforts smoother. One must appreciate the efficiency of such a relationship, especially when one is trying to cross an unknown ocean before the ship’s biscuits go truly stale.
After weeks of preparation and repairs, the fleet finally departed La Gomera on September 6th, leaving the familiar shores of Europe behind. The Canary Islands, the last known outpost of civilization before the vast, terrifying expanse, receded into the horizon. The crew, having enjoyed their brief respite, were now faced with the true purpose of their voyage: sailing west until they hit something. Columbus, for his part, was utterly convinced that “something” would be Asia. He was wrong, of course, but not in the way he, or anyone else on that day, could have possibly imagined. The irony, as history would later reveal, was that his spectacular failure to reach Asia would become one of the most consequential successes in human exploration, though perhaps less so for the inhabitants of the lands he was about to “discover.”